Ann Demeulemeester’s subtle dark designs have long cemented her in the forefront of the avant garde design since her days as a Central Saint Martin graduate as a part of the Antwerp Six. Ann Verhelst lead her namesake brand since it’s inception in 1985 until 2013, when Margiela protégé Sebastian Meunier stepped up from his 3-year tenure as menswear designer at the house to assume full creative direction. It is undeniable that Ann paved the way for many in the avant garde and darkwear space with her eclectic takes on tailoring and focus on subtle idiosyncrasies of fabrication. Fabric and process are the main draws of this shirt, where a substantial treated cotton forms the base with burnt laser holes piercing the piece to create texture, depth, and narrative.